Knowing the blood and lifeline of your car’s system - Brake, Power Steering, Battery and Radiator Coolant Fluids

Now that you’ve known the other car care basics, perhaps it’s time we take a look at the fluid essentials that are literally the life giving blood of your car.


1. Brake Fluid - Is a type of hydraulic fluid that is used in hydraulic brake applications of your car, motorcycles and trucks. This type of fluid is used to transfer force under pressure from its point of origin among hydraulic lines to the braking mechanism close to the wheels.

Most brake fluids today are composed of glycol-ether but several types with mineral oil and silicone composites are also out in the market. This type of fluid should meet stringent requirements set by organizations such as SAE and the US Department of Transportation (DOT) - hence you get ratings on labels such as SAE or DOT 3 and 4 compliance.

As a rule of thumb, brake fluid should always be replenished if the levels in its container decrease with every drive. Fluid level in the master cyclinder will drop as the linings, brake pads and shoes wear and the calipers extend further to compensate. Brake fluid level may also be low because of leaking, which can lead to loss of hydraulic pressure and the most dangerous- brake loss.

It is very important to constantly monitor your brake fluid levels to ensure safe driving and fill according to the set level. Flush and change your brake fluid every 1-2 years to further ensure reliability and take note to never mix brake fluids with different DOT ratings as this can result to poor fluid performance.

2. Power Steering – Is another type of hydraulic fluid that transmits the power steering system of cars, trucks and other modes of transportation.

This is the fluid that guards your power-steering pump and rack from wear and tear. It requires constant monitoring and refilling from time to time according to the required level in its cylinder.

A way to notice that your steering system is about to have a problem or that your power steering fluid is running low is when you turn the steering wheel and you hear whining noises. Have your car checked when this occurs to prevent serious damages to your power- steering system.

Note: There are products out in the market today that contain the combined properties of Power Steering and Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF). Use any of these products to save and be protected more.


3. Battery Fluid - Is the electrolyte fluid found inside the cells of your battery. If you are using the regular type of battery and not the maintenance free one, then you are required to refill your battery cells from time to time with electrolyte fluid.

Standard battery for cars is 12V and usually has 6 individual cells inside it. To refill, simply remove the vent caps that can either be found on top or on the sides of the battery. Check and fill the electrolyte fluid inside.

Note: There are some brands of maintenance free batteries out in the market today that can run on dual power- meaning they also have vent caps for electrolyte fluids in case their power supply run out. Although this type of battery may not come cheap, it would be best for you to use it.

4. Radiator Coolant- Is a mixture of anti-freeze fluid and water designed to protect the radiator and cooling system all year round. Using one will protect your engine from overheating. Most coolant products out in the market today come with various additives that can further help you against rust and other forms of corrosion, lubricate or increase the cooling efficiency of your cooling system.

Simply pour out the contents of your coolant to the radiator reservoir. Add water to the set level and you’re done.

For maintenance, it is very important for you to drain and flush your coolant once a year (or depending on the product recommendations) and replace it with a new one.

Note: Never mix different types of coolant together as this can lead to damage or a reduction of your car’s cooling system. Before changing to another brand, be sure to drain and flush your cooling system of the old one.

See to it that the reservoirs of these fluids are in constant levels and refill when they’re not enough. Properly maintaining them will help ensure your safety and prolong the life of your car.

Buckle up and drive safely.

by: Jovir Amatong
AutoTerminal.com

How to detect hidden defects in a used car

Imagine yourself in the seller's shoes. You are trying to sell your old coupe for a bigger sedan. You gather the keys, rummage through your pile of junk for the owner's manual and old service records. You clean the engines, vacuum the interiors, rub out the stains on the cushions and put your coupe through a car wash.

When you get home to admire the sheen of the freshly polished wax, you notice some scratches and dents. Luckily, you have the cosmetics for such a contingency. And if your luck holds out, buyers wouldn’t even notice the dents and scratches. You are now ready to meet the buyers with a smile borne out of a clean conscience.

Imagine and remember this because this is exactly how a private seller with an ounce of business sense would prep his or her vehicle before a sale. Dealers could do it a lot better when they try. So, how do you see past the haphazard paint job? There is a way to detect hidden defects on the vehicle.

Body
• Check if the paint on the outside of the car matches the paint inside the door frame. Check for gritty surfaces and paint overspray on chrome – possible signs of a new paint job or masking body dents and scratches.
• Check if the panels line up evenly. Also check if there are any scuffs, scratches, dents or irregular protrusions in the wings and bumper – these could be warning signs of past accidents.

Doors and Trunk Lid
• Make sure that doors and lid open without any creaks and close smoothly without being slammed. A door or lid that doesn’t fit evenly could indicate that the vehicle was involved in a collision or was regularly driven in rough roads.
• Check that the locks work properly.
• Look for rips and stains on the interior panel of the door and scrapes on the bottom edges.

Windows
• See if there are any hairline cracks or tiny holes in the glass.
• Make sure that they move up and down smoothly and if they fit snugly when fully rolled up or down.

Tailpipe
• Check if the tailpipe is damaged from poor reversing.
• Examine the rear bumper for excessive soot from the exhaust. If the tailpipe has black gummy soot, this may indicate that the engine has worn rings or bad valves, which could mean expensive repairs.

Tires and Shock Absorbers
• Check the tires (don’t forget the spare) if they are unevenly worn as this may indicate either bad alignment or worse – damaged suspension.
• Put your full weight on a corner of the car and release – if the car keeps rocking up and down, be wary about the condition of the shock absorbers.

Interiors
• Check if the steering wheel points straight when the wheels are aligned ahead.
• Check the upholstery for cigarette burns, rips, stains or scuffs. Low mileage readings but worn out driver’s seat and brake and accelerator pedals could mean that the odometer has been tampered.
• Musty smell, dirt under the mat, moisture inside the trunk and watermarks on the interior panels of doors are likely indicators of flood damage.

Lights and Mechanical Devices
• Make sure the lights, air conditioner, heater, windshield wipers, radio and other accessories work properly.

Already sounds like too much work? This doesn’t include checking out the engine and gauging the vehicle’s driving performance yet. That’s a long topic that needs to be addressed in a separate article. Nevertheless, what we’ve discussed could help you unmask any hastily dressed up lemon to reveal its true colors, so to speak.

If you want convenience, buy from a reputable dealer who sells the vehicle “as is.” The dealer does the checking for you, documents all the dents, scratches and damages worth noting and includes the information in the vehicle description. Then all you need to do is negotiate the price.

www.autoterminal.com

Maintaining the peak performance of your car’s battery

For those of you who are first time DIYs, the battery is one of the integral components of your car; it is rechargeable and is the power source of the ignition system and other electrical devices in your car.

Initially there’s the maintenance free and low-maintenance types to choose from. A maintenance free battery is sealed and will not require replenishing the battery fluids over a long period of time while the low-maintenance type requires constant check up and replenishing once a drop in battery fluid levels can be seen. Battery fluid (Alkaline) can easily be bought at local gas stations and car yards or you can use distilled water as a substitute.

In layman’s terms the battery is the heart of your car but is often times the most neglected simply because nowadays it’s bought “maintenance free.”

Recent trends and technological advancements have made maintenance free batteries a standard on every vehicle out in the market today.

Don’t get the impression that since you’ve read on the label that it’s maintenance free, you will just simply put it in its place and forget about it. Your car’s battery is not entirely that. Just like any other sensitive equipment of your car, it also requires your constant care and attention for it to function well.

Here are the basic maintenance tips that will certainly save you a lot of trouble and will not leave you clueless by the roadside while on a very important trip.

As a rule before doing maintenance checks, always see to it to disconnect the clamps off the terminals to avoid untoward injuries from shock.

1. Check the cell casing and cover
Run an ocular inspection on the battery cell casing, box and cover for signs of moisture and pungent acidic smell. These are indicators that your battery is leaking and it needs to be fixed or replaced right away.

Maintain caution when handling leaking batteries for hazardous chemicals are present.

2. Clean terminals, clamps and cables
When you happened to see white powdery specks or see colorful substances around the terminals, they are signs of corrosion and needs to be cleaned right away. Make a baking soda solution (1 tablespoon baking soda immersed in 1 cup of water) and with an old toothbrush, clean the terminals, clamps and cables. Also clean the battery cover for accumulated grime and dust.

3. Make sure everything is dry
Make it a point to have everything dry before going further with your check up. With a dry rag, wipe off the remaining dew and moisture from the battery and terminals.

4. Check the wiring and connection
Run a check on the wires and clamps for strips or corrosion. If you have stripped cables, patch the affected part with a good electrical tape or have them replaced by a mechanic. Make sure that the battery is placed securely in its place. If your battery is equipped with a hold down bar, be sure to replace it.

5. Lubricate the terminals
With a lubricant (Petroleum jelly) place a small dab on the terminals. This will keep your cables clean and free of corrosion longer, while making it easier for you to put the cables back on the battery terminal.

6. Change your battery
Change your battery at the maximum of 3 to 3.5 years or after reaching the warranty period. For accidental battery drain (Such as leaving the lights on or stereo on) a lot of auto technicians would just recommend re-charging.
Car battery maintenance is that easy! Do it frequently to extend the life of your battery.

Safe driving.

www.autoterminal.com

Money saving car care and maintenance tips

There are loads of stuff that you can employ to assure that your vehicle is always in tip top shape, while easing on the budget and saving precious time. Instead of always going to the car shop whenever conks are heard under the hood, why not fix minor car problems on your own?

You’re not only giving yourself a favor by not going thru the hassle of the long wait to have your car fixed at the local car shop, but you’re also protecting yourself from unscrupulous mechanics who might take advantage of your predicament.

Here are a few tips to get you worry free on the road.

1. Read your car repair manual and other Do it yourself (DIY) books

It wouldn’t hurt for you to take some time off to read and study the ins and outs of your car. You’ll be familiar with the specifications and the proper maintenance of your vehicle. DIY books also abound, providing you the basic and advanced techniques which could save you hundreds perhaps thousands of dollars on repairs.

By reading, you’ll have the ample knowledge to get the job done yourself whenever unpleasant situations arise. Like a bible is to a clergyman, always see to it to have a book or two beside you for quick reference in emergencies.


2. Keep the right tools in your toolbox

It is very important that you use the right tool for the right job because if you use the wrong one, you might end up with broken nuts and bolts or worse, have them worn out.

Here’s a rundown of the basic tool must-haves for your toolbox.

A. Jack and Jack Stands – Conventional for changing tires and fixes under the chassis. Remember to never rely on the jack whenever lifting your car. Always have jack stands on hand for support and safety.

B. Philips and Flat tip screwdrivers - Always have a pair handy for turning loose screws and replacing worn out ones. You can also use these to poke and reach things fallen among tiny and hard to reach corners.

C. Standard and Long nose Pliers - It never pays to have a pair of these handy for gripping and the easy removal of bolts and nuts. These can also be used to hold or clip wires when you’re working on wiring connections.

D. Wrench or Spanner set - Always keep a set to turn bolts, nuts and other hard to turn items. Select the appropriate wrench size and number to that of the bolt and nut you will turn.

E. Wire strippers and cutters - Must-haves for fixing and replacing old worn out wires or stripping them.

F. Standard Tire Wrench/ Iron - A must-have for tire replacement.

G. Towing Cable - Very helpful when you need to be securely towed away in an emergency.

H. A roll of Electrical tape (Preferably fire retardant) – Handy in times of replacing and insulating stripped or worn out wires. Select the fire retardant type as it provides maximum protection and adheres better than the regular type.

I. Spare bulbs - It surely pays to have a spare bulb on hand for sudden shutdowns in important beacons such as signal, safety, break and head lights while driving down dark roads at night.

J. Work light / Flashlight – Very useful to lighten dark nooks and crannies that you’re working on. A work light can either just be a regular flashlight or the kind with nodes that you can tap to the positive and negative terminals of your car’s battery.

K. Tire Inflator – Though this tool may not fit your toolbox, but having one beside it in your baggage is very helpful for mending flat tires while travelling in areas where car shops and gas stations are scarce.


3. Driving routine check ups

Before hitting the ignition keys, a short round up check is helpful to ensure hassle-free and safe driving. A routine check up may be time consuming, but it can save your life and of those you’re travelling with.

A. Check for Water, Break, Steering and Transmission fluid levels. This is to avoid overheating, steering problems or worse, break loss while travelling. Fill up to recommended levels only.

B. Check the Tire pressure. Remember that unequal pressure among your tires will greatly dampen speed and stamina, thereby increasing your car’s fuel consumption.

C. Check the lights. For those who frequently travel at night, a check on all signals and lights is a must. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to know what dangers await you, driving down that dark road with busted lights!

Relax and safe driving.


AutoTerminal.com